As I passed the desk where you could check in your firearms
before heading into the Estadio Cuscatlan, I realized that my game day
experience was going to be a little different than it is at BMO Field in
Toronto. Located in El Salvador’s
capital city of San Salvador it is the largest stadium in Central America with
a capacity of 53,400. In the shadow of the stunning San Salvador Volcano, big
matches at ‘La Catedral del Espectáculo’ are not for the faint of heart. I was
there for a cup match in 2008 between San Salvador F.C. and FAS. Although the
ground was well below capacity, I had to take my hat off to the FAS supporters
for eventually creating a wall of sound. Up until about twenty minutes before
kickoff their section remained mysteriously empty, when suddenly a large guy
carrying a massive steel drum emerged from their tunnel leading in a few
hundred supporters behind him in single file. They yelled, “FAS! FAS! FAS!”
over and over as the big guy rocked the drums.
I mentioned how impressed I was by their entrance to the old
timer sitting next to me and he shook his head dismissively. “You need to come
back when Alianza are playing, Gringo. FAS are… how you say, hicks?”
I took his word for it, as he claimed to have played for
Alianza in the late ‘60s and also turned me onto the wonders of Yuca Frita. If
you ever find yourself at a football match in Central America get yourself a
bag of these, pour some hot sauce on them and wash it all down with a tall,
cool bottle of Pilsener.
Atmosphere
When thinking back to some of the grounds I’ve been to over
the years there are several essential things that can make a match day just
that much better. First of all a ground has to have a good atmosphere and an
area for vocal supporters to gather. Unfortunately in many modern stadiums
there isn’t the general admission ticketing of the past, where like-minded fans
could gather together to vocally support their teams. However, some of the better
grounds today are home to clubs that have worked with supporters to create the
right conditions for getting the more vocal fans to be situated together. Even
in the relatively young MLS there are clubs like Seattle than have done a superb
job of connecting with their supporters and providing them with their own
section.
One of the grounds I’ve been to where supporters were organized
into their own large section and they were able to generate some great support
was the Amsterdam Arena. Although Ajax were playing Zwolle, who aren’t
considered a major rival, the atmosphere in the ground was terrific. It was a consistent noise throughout, which was great.
When you are in one of these sections for your own club,
surrounded by your friends and really getting behind your team there is nothing
like it. Just don't be a tourist. Or, even if you are a tourist you simply have to sing or just move to another section.
The Ground’s Design and Amenities
Although I love the fact that Toronto has its own professional
soccer club with its own ground, I couldn’t help but feel slightly disappointed
the first time I saw BMO Field. Lacking a roof around the tin can like stands
and with very basic amenities it reminded me of a decent sized US High School
stadium. On the plus side for those of us who need things to aim for in life,
the soccer nets in the urinals are terrific.
In 2010 when I went down with a few people to the fantastic
RedBull Arena in New Jersey, one of our group commented that the place was
going make going back to BMO like going to Lamport Stadium. That comment is a
little inside joke for our Southern Ontario readers, but let’s just say that
Lamport Stadium, with its Spartan concrete and metal design, resembles a North
Korean athletic complex. Like BMO Field, it is functional but it’s hardly the
Stadium of Light.
Watching a match in a stadium with a roof is not only more
comfortable, but it also helps generate noise as the chants and songs of
supporters bounce down and stay in the ground. So I’m encouraged to hear that
this might well be on the cards at BMO Field in the very near future.
As for concessions, I don’t generally buy food at football
grounds and only drink beer at them on occasion. I’m not making a stand against
modern football; I’m just a very cheap man that doesn’t like paying $12 for a
watered down Budweiser. But that being said, if a ground offers some half
decent food options at a reasonable price and doesn’t take you behind the wood
shed for an awkward encounter with the beer prices, in a pinch it’s fine. Make
sure you have your ID with you at all times if you are thinking of having a
beer at a football ground in North America though. I’ve never encountered as
much militarism in ID’ing people anywhere else in the world. My 67 year old dad
has been asked for ID on numerous occasions over here and although he looks
after himself, you’d have to be wearing glasses with lenses thicker than the
bottoms of old school Coke bottles for you to think he’s 16.
A decent view of the pitch is also essential to your match
going experience. Grounds where you feel like you’re a million miles away from
the pitch or worst yet you’re stuck behind a support beam certainly doesn’t
provide for the best day out. Imagine you were an Aston Villa supporter a few
years back and you missed out on an Emile Heskey air kick because a stadium
column was in your way. Actually, don’t answer that.
What’s Around the Ground
As much as I was impressed by the Amsterdam Arena, enjoyed
the atmosphere at Hamburg’s Imtech Arena, felt envious of RedBull Arena and met
a good group of people at Walsall’s Bescot Stadium all of these grounds suffer
from having nothing of note around them. Part of the match day experience is
meeting up with your friends at a pub, sinking a couple of reasonably priced
beers and maybe grabbing a Shawarma before heading off to the ground.
Despite my earlier gripes about BMO Field, there are at
least a few decent pubs and bars fairly close to the stadium like Brazenhead and
The Rhino that are worth dropping into on match days. I’m not going to tell you where to buy a great
Shawarma though. That’s simply because I don’t want any unnecessary lines at my
favourite joint when I have a craving for one.
Over in Europe some of the older grounds that are located
closer to the city centres still have some decent options for food and
beverages nearby. Even with the hyper commercialized nature of Old
Trafford these days, there are actually a few good pubs like Samuel Platts
within easy walking distance to the ground. After watching Chicharito snatch a
last gasp winner against Everton in 2011 I ran into a couple of young Glaswegian
guys in Sam Platts who seemed puzzled as to how I’d gotten from Toronto to
Manchester. After telling them I’d flown over to London a few days before and
driven up north with my cousin they seemed even more confused. Perhaps it was
my accent or maybe they were just too drunk to get their heads around air
travel, but either way, good luck to them. They bought us a round and made a
good day even better with their humour.
But Does it Matter?
Of course a lot of the above may be irrelevant if the side
you’re watching is absolute garbage, but it may at least make match days a bit
more bearable. Anyhow, I’d love to hear about what grounds you've enjoyed
visiting and why. Drop us a note in the comments box below.
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